The Burly Corporation of North America

Completed Installation Photos for Foxstone Fence

Thousands of home owners and business owners have used wood panels to build privacy fencing.
After a few short years the wood (even the best cedar) turns colors, warps, rots, and is either
blown down or is destroyed in grass fire.
Plastic privacy panels became the replacement for wood and solved some of the problems.
But, plastic melts and burns, and needs steel inserts to make it strong enough to stand up in high winds.
We invented Foxstone Privacy - Security Fencing.
It's made of galvanized steel that is powder coated to ensure a very long life. Not only
will it last 5 times longer than a wood fence, it's beauty will last that long too, and installation is
quick and easy. Everyone loves Foxstone and you will too.

Foxstone Fence Installation Instructions

Installing a Foxstone fence is a straight forward procedure for the homeowner.
Installation breaks down into a few simple steps-

• Site Evaluation and Preparation
• Site Prep and Layout
• Receivers and Posts
• Digging Holes
• Rails
• Picket Installation

You'll need a few basic tools - some stakes and string, marking materials like
landscaper's spray paint to locate the posts, a 12" diameter auger or posthole digger
capable of digging to the required depth, a magnetic leve, a 2000 rpm screw gun
or tek driver, a power saw with carbide tooth metal cutting blade - we do not
recommend an abrasive blade (it will overheat the metal). You'll also need a
power source, tape measure and equipment for mixing concrete. Also, cut some
scrap 2X4 boards about 12" in length to support the rails.

Before You Start
Before beginning any type of construction that involves digging you must call
Dig Test. You can dial 811 nationally. Remember - there are any number of
underground hazards and you don't want your digging tools to find a gas or
electrical line that was installed long before you acquired the property. It's
important to remember that Dig Test requires 2 business days to complete their
work, so call the week before you plan to erect your fence.

Site Evaluation
Before you start digging holes and building your fence, first determine if you need a
building permit for the new fence. If you're building in a homeowners association or
you have deed restrictions governing the property, clear those as well. You'll also
want to talk to neighbors sharing the property line so they will know what, when,
where, and how you'll be doing the installation.

Next locate the site pins or survey benchmarks for your property lines. If you can't
find them it's a good idea to have the property surveyed. There's nothing worse
than installing a beautiful new fence and then have to move it.

Site Prep and Layout
Measure the area and locate the corners. We suggest that you move you fence
at least 2 inches inside the property lines. This will allow you 2 inches in variance
for mistakes. Place you corner stakes and run the string line between them. Mark
you post location on-center at 8-foot intervals. A 100-foot run will require 14 posts
(12 8-foot sections and one 4-foot section). It's important to note that the distance
may vary slightly over a grade change. If you have any questions, call for
technical support 1-800-772-8100

Receivers and Posts
Next install the receivers on all corner, line and end posts. Place the posts on wood
blocks to give them a firm base off the ground so as not to scratch the receivers on the
opposite side. The posts are marked to show where the receivers are to be attached
with self-tapping screws. But be sure to double-check you particular measurements
on each post. HIGHLY IMPORTANT: Make certain that the open side of the receivers
face each other on the posts.

Drilling Holes
Now it's time to drill your holes. For a 4-foot tall fence we recommend a 26-inch deep hole,
for a 6-foot fence drill a 32-inch deep hole, and for an 8-foot tall fence the hole should be
38-inches deep.


As you drill the holes, place the posts in holes BUT DO NOT cement them in place yet.
Start with one corner or end post place the bottom receiver on a 2X4 to regulate the height
of the bottom rail to one and one half inches above ground level. Then, making sure that
it is plumb (level) and that the attached receivers are facing the right direction cement it in
place. Do this at a corner or end post and allow the concrete to cure.

Rails
Now that you have all your posts in the right holes with receivers set and ready,
starting with the cemented end or corner post, hook up rails placing block under
the rails as you go. Use the 12-inch lengths of 2X4 scrap lumber to support the rail
on either side of the post. This helps keep the bottom rail clearance even along the
run of the fence. Install the bottom rail and then the top rail, keeping the post plumb
with the line of the fence. The plane of the fence can be raised or lowered to keep
a smooth contour with your yard.

Once the rails are in place concrete the remaining posts in place checking for
plumb and continuing down the fence line until all posts are set, plumb and square.
It's a good idea to wash off excess concrete splatters on the fence while concrete
is still wet. Then, allow an appropriate time for the concrete to set up.

Picket Installation
After the cement has time to cure it's time to start setting the pickets. Note: there
are two distinctive profiles to the pickets - decide which profile you prefer and
make certain to maintain that profile to the same side to your fence as you move
from section to section. Start at a post and install the first picket flush to the post.
(step 1), slide the picket into the channel on the lower rail, then raise it to align the
top of the picket with the first 90º bend to the top rail (this will be approx. 1 1/2"
in the rails). (step 2), install the top screw into the face side of the picket, (step 3)
install the bottom screw. This keeps the pickets plumb with the posts.

Using steps 1,2, and 3. Repeat this for each picket until the last four to five pickets.
Place those pickets into the rails but don't screw them in just yet. Screw into place
the picket closest to the opposite end post, aligning it with the post. Spread or
contract the remaining four to five pickets to even the spacing and screw them
in top and bottom.

Once you've finished installing all of the pickets on the face side of the fence,
move to the opposite side and have a helper install the screws on the back side
by pressing a piece of lumber against the overlap of the face side of the picket.
Install screws in the short part of each picket at the top and bottom. Continue
across the entire panel. At the corner, install a screw in the long side of the last
picket and the top and bottom. Place the 4"X4" cap on the post.

Now enjoy your beautiful Foxstone Fence!

Foxstone Fence Parts


Fence Post
4' 4"X 4" Post (6') - CAE AA*
6' 4" X 4" Post (8' 6") - CAE AB
8' 4" X 4" Post (11') - CAE AC



Fence Rail
8' Rail (92") - CAF AA


Fence Rail Receiver
Rail Receiver for Post - CAI AA


Fence Picket
4' Fence Picket (43") - CAG AA
6' Fence Picket (67") - CAG AB
8' Fence Picket (91") - CAG AC


Tec Screws
Screws #14 T30 (100 pkg) - CAL AB
___________________________________________
*Special Order